The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Dr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. I asked her to be on the podcast because eating disorders and disordered eating behaviors run rampant in the climbing community, and I wanted her to chime in to give us a little perspective. 

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.

Alex Biale has bouldered up to V13 and has done some impressive highballs. He also gets injured... a lot. He describes how he's trained through his climbing injuries and lays out his current training program that's made him more muscular and more injury-proof.

In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.

In this interview, I talk with pro climber Sasha DiGiulian about her current training regime, how her goals have changed over the years, what significance she puts on FFA's, and how her body weight has affected her climbing and people's opinions of her.

In this interview, Tyler Nelson describes a way to use a simple scale to test your isometric strength (pulling as hard as you can on a motionless object), which can help you warm up for trying hard on climbs and determine whether or not you should be trying hard in the first place.

This is a mini version of the TrainingBeta Podcast, where I talk with trainer, Matt Pincus, for just 20 minutes. He compares the various finger training protocols out there and helps you figure out what protocol is best for your climbing goals, and the 3 main things you should be focused on, no matter what protocol you're using.

In this interview with researcher and climber, Dr. Roanne van Voorst, we talk about her new book, Fear. In it, she interviewed Alex Honnold, Hazel Findlay, and many other extreme athletes about how they cope with and move through fear.

In our second interview I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about her new book on sports performance. We discussed using imagery, setting realistic goals, performing under pressure, limiting beliefts, and staying motivated.

In this interview I talk with coach, climber, mountain guide, and skier, Zahan Billimoria about how he trains his athletes for mountain objectives using minimal equipment.

This interview with physical therapist, Esther Smith, is all about hip and knee injuries. We talk about the most common hip and knee injuries among climbers, why we get them, what they feel like, how to get a proper diagnosis, and mostly… how to make the injuries go away.

Matt Pincus is the guy who keeps trainingbeta.com running as our blogger and social media manager. He's also an online climbing trainer, and in this interview I talked with him about how he approaches training people online, as well as his own climbing and training. We also discussed how he stayed strong through a serious finger injury and leg surgery, as well as how he transitioned from being a boulderer to a sport climber.

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about his 4-step pyramid for healing climbing injuries like shoulder impingement, rotator cuff strain, and neck strain.

Climbing trainers Tom Randall and Ollie Torr tell us all about their research on their clients and its implications for their training methods and our own training.

TBP 090 :: Charlie Manganiello on Training for Multiple Sports